How do I make a simple mushroom sauce?

As Fall is creeping up on us, and as temperatures start to cool down a bit, we might start looking for the heartier fare of colder times. I like to think of mushrooms as the "gateway ingredient", and now happens to be a great time to get your hands on some.

We're at the tail end of the chanterelle season, and slipping into porcini (which actually grow well around here) and even truffles if you've got the coin. But it seems like people shy away from funghi for a few reasons. 1) They have the reputation of being expensive. and 2) failed attempts to extract good flavor from the mushroom at hand.

Let's lay these concerns to rest. First, yes, mushroom can cost a pretty penny, but keep in mind that they are very lightweight in nature, and when prepared properly, a little bit will go a long way.

For making them tasty. It's really easy. We're gonna make a sauce that I put on pasta, but would be delicious over fish or meat as well.

Mushroom Sauce

6-8 oz Mushrooms of your choice, Single variety or mixed, sliced thinly.
2 Shallots, chopped finely <- the shallots should be about the size of golf balls, if they're huge, use less.
1 clove Garlic
1/4 cup Mushroom stock (any stock will do though)
1 tbsps White wine
2 tbsps Fresh thyme, chopped
Vegetable Oil and Butter for sauteing.

1. In a saute pan, heat equal part butter and oil over medium high heat. Saute the mushrooms until nicely browned.
2. Set aside the mushrooms and lower the heat to medium. In the same butter/oil mixture, sweat the shallots until translucent. Add the garlic and stir just long enough to extract the aroma.
3. Return the mushrooms the the pan and add the stock and wine. Simmer until the sauce thickens and finish with generous pat of butter (1/2 to 1 tablespoon) and the thyme.


When shopping for mushrooms, they should be firm and resilient to indentation. They should feel dry and smell earthy. Damp spots, mold, and funky (bad) smells are all no-no's. If you can pick individual peices out of a pile, keep in mind that the younger/smaller mushrooms, tend to last a little bit long, and maybe even taste a little bit better. To store them, a brown paper bag with a small hole torn is iedal. It regulates the moisture very well.

I'm starting with seven types, I like mix for a few reasons, you get little hints of all the different flavors, but the variety has the effect of balancing itself out. Also the cheaper mushrooms can compensate for the volume a little. This mix cost me under five dollars!

These mushrooms are as follows from top left: The common button mushroom, portobello, shitake,
bluefoot, chanterelle, cremini (which grows into a portobello) and a king oyster of roal trumpet.


I wipe all the mushrooms down with a damp paper towel to remove any grime. I'll also scoop the gills out of the portobello. The taste of the gills is fine but they can turn the whole mix black. Slicing them thinly is key to getting bang for your buck. It is the browning that really stands out in the end, So more surface area = more browning = yummier mushrooms. You may have noticed I didn't indicate the amount of oil and butter needed. It is because that will depend on the mushroom used. They have different absorption rates, so you'll have to use your own judgment. Just make sure there is enough fat present to brown well, if there isn't, the shrooms will simply burn.

In the simmering phase of this method, some of the browning will dissolve into the liquid, which is what we want, just don't fret if your mushrooms turn pale again.


To finish my pasta, I just drop in the noodles followed by an additional drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and some grated parm.

I made "le stracci" for this dish, just cut squares of fresh pasta. One of my favorites, literally translated it means "rags".

What do you do if you have more tomatoes than you can use up right away?

This is a question that plagues tomato growers every year, who inevitably end up with more tomatoes than they can eat.
The trick is to get to the tomato when it is at its peek. For this reason I usually keep a good rotation tomatoes coming and going.
However, when I have more tomatoes on the brink of disaster than I can eat, I'll usually whip up a quick simple sauce, (like the roasted one in the newsletter).
A sauce like this will last a few days in the fridge, or a few months in the freezer.

Here's another simple sauce that goes great with just about anything you can think of.

2 lbs. ripe tomaotes, cut into 1 inch chunks
1 cup onions, diced
1/2 cup carrot, grated
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup wine (red or white)
handful of whole basil leaves.

1. In medium sauce pot, sweat the onions over medium heat until translucent. About 5 minutes.
2. Add the carrots and garlic and sweat a little further, don't allow the garlic to brown!
3. Once the veg is soft, add the tomatoes, wine and basil. Continue to cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally.

A Dissertation on the Chicken Breast

I (and most everyone I know) have a lot of trouble preparing chicken breast on the grill. The fear of undercooking always leaves me with dry, overcooked, flavorless chicken. I never see chicken used that much during demos or shows, so there aren't tons of dishes or ideas floating around that I can think of to make. Do you have pointers on how to make a moist properly cooked and flavorful chicken breast on the grill?



This is a common question, and I'll tell you that even as an experienced cook, I loath the chicken breast. It dries out quickly, and doesn’t do much to take on or give off great flavors. So before I go into this, let me say that I personally will typically stick to legs and thighs, especially when entertaining. They have a little more room to mess around. That said, there is hope for the chicken breast.

Grilling in general can be tricky because the heat within a closed grill can be so uneven, you wind up with unevenly cooked meats. I think we've all cut into that steak that is half perfect, half well done. So let's start with the technique. If you have a gas grill, start with part of it very hot, the other low. For a wood-burning grill I'll build a lopsided charcoal pile for the same effect. You'll start by "searing" your chicken. Look for nice browning (without burning) and grill marks, that's where your grilling flavor comes from.

Once your Chicken is sufficiently browned move it to the low heat, cover your grill, and let it slowly "bake" until it's done. This method allows the chicken to cook with out rushing the process, and drying out the chicken.

There are a few ways to test doneness. You can simply cut into it . . . no pink and it's done, right? WRONG!!!!! If you cut into chicken sitting on a grill and it's done, then it will be over done by the time you eat it. If you cut into there should a glistening surface (that means juicy) and the slightest hint of pink is not a bad thing, it means you're bird is almost done. After a few minutes resting in tin foil, a new slice should reveal perfectly cooked chicken.

(this is how the chicken should look straight off the grill, after a few minutes resting in foil she will be perfect)

If you're a little more technical, get a thermometer. According to the FDA the chicken should reach an internal temperature of 165 degrees, but factoring carry over and the fact the FDA is very conservative, I would pull it at around 158ish and wrap it in tin foil. There is also the poke technique, in which a small knife or skewer is inserted to release liquid. If it's pink, you need a little more time, if the juice is clear you're good to go, if there is no juice, you’re up a chef creek. Always keep in mind when grilling chicken pieces that the breast meat cooks considerably quicker than the legs and thighs and if you cut into meat that isn’t cooked enough for your own taste, just throw it back on the grill.

I'm not mentioning cooking times here because grills can vary so much. It's up to you to discern the difference. Pay attention to what happens. If the meat browns quickly, know that residual heat hasn't penetrated very far, requiring longer "baking". Inversely, if the meat is browning slowly it will be "baking" too. So the solo "baking" time will be shorter.

I have a few more tricks up my sleeve to make it a little more foolproof. The first is to simply butterfly the breast. This accomplishes a few things, 1. It increases the surface area meaning a better grill flavor to meat ratio. 2. It shortens the cooking time it, making it possible to grill it completely through before the proteins seize up and squish all the moisture out.

Another option is soaking your chicken in a salty (and sugary) solution. An overnight bath, in addition to adding great and even seasoning, will denature proteins in the bird, naturally allowing it to take on and retain extra moisture; Resulting in juicier chicken and giving you a bigger window within which to work.

This is a simple and general recipe, calling for water, salt and sugar. But there are many variations on the theme. Water can be substituted with more flavorful liquids like cider, wine, or stocks (buttermilk is great when frying). In lieu of salt, soy or even fish sauce can be used, but not always in equal amounts due to varying sodium levels. And for sugar, the possibilities go on, honey works very well, sorghum or molasses, even brown sugar can add a nice depth of flavor. Lastly, any number of herbs and spices can be added to this brine, loads of black pepper, cinnamon, toasted cumin and coriander, a splash of spiced rum, the only limit is your imagination.

Simple Brine

2 cups Water
2 tbsps Salt
1 tbsp Sugar
2 cups Ice (crushed if you have access to it.)

1. In a small pot, heat the water, sugar and salt to dissolve. (you may want to simmer or steep for a few minutes if you are adding spices)
2. Transfer the hot liquid to the brining container and add the ice. Allow it to cool completely. (it should be like ice water when you add it to the chicken)
3. Add just enough brine to cover the meat, making sure the surfaces are in contact with the liquid. Soak the chicken for at least five hours or up to two days.

Good luck with your chicken!




Disclaimer: While most food born illness is generated from improperly handled prepared food. Freshly cooked fare can have it's risks. Make absolutely sure you are getting your chicken from a reliable source and if you are concerned or uncomfortable that your chicken is undercooked, then cook it more.
We don't want anyone getting sick!

I have trouble getting a great garlic flavor out of my garlic, what’s the secret?

This is a common dilemma among cooks. Garlic is a deceptively delicate item, despite it’s ability to hang, drying for months before use, and still be delicious. Once out of its papery skin, garlic is very sensitive to oxidation, taking a turn for the worse within 20 minutes. For this reason it’s better to process garlic shortly before use. And it goes without saying to avoid the pre-peeled stuff whenever possible.

That said, of course you need to find good garlic and this is the time of year when it is at its peek. The head should feel tight, and skin taught, the garlic itself should be very firm. If you happen to get a head of garlic that’s already sprouting, you can cut the cloves lengthwise and remove the green part as it can be terribly bitter and acrid.

If you do want to get it ready ahead of time, you can chop/crush it and cover it with olive oil. I say “chop/crush” because it’s a hybrid of the two and they both serve a purpose. Chopping increases the surface area for even distribution and crushing releases the oil that makes garlic taste so good. The olive does a few things as well, it slows down the oxidation process and it absorbs the great, but volatile, fat-soluble flavors. This method can be used in the just any recipe that calls for garlic.


Spaghetti All’aglio e Pepperoncino

½ lb. spaghetti (I like de cecco, no. 12. Indicating a thicker noodle)
1 ½ tbsps chopped garlic
1 tsp chili pepper flakes
3 tbsps extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp Parsley, chopped
1 squeeze of lemon

{You could use the garlic and oil from the method suggested above}

1. over medium to medium low heat, lightly toast the garlic and crushed chili in the olive oil, this will take a little while, up to 8-10 minutes. The garlic should take the slightest color (see pic), dark brown garlic will taste very bitter.
2. Boil the pasta to your liking in salted water (I like 1 tbsp salt per 1 qt. water)
3. Drain the pasta (don’t rinse it) and toss in the oil along with parsley and lemon juice.