Multi-Purpose

I always have an eye on my own kitchen practices to discern what it is that I think will qualify for the most basic and important tools, habits, ingredients, etc . . . Both to improve on my own inefficiencies and to share what I’ve developed for myself over the years. This is tricky because the true habits and staples of my kitchen are hidden from me. They involve mechanical behavior that happens all the time, and sometimes I don’t even realize I’m doing it . . . . like breathing.

Something jumped out to me this morning over breakfast, my rice cooker. I get a lot of questions from people who can’t seem to get their rice right. While there are plenty of techniques I can lay down to help, I suggest nipping the problem in the bud and treating yourself to a rice cooker. You press the button and when it pops up it’s done.

Mine sees so much action I’m surprised it still works. I use it almost daily, and often twice a day . . . . but I don’t eat much rice. A rice cooker can be used for anything that calls for the “rice method”: a grain/water ratio, where you bring it to a boil and then lower the heat. So pretty much any grain; polenta, quinoa, bulgur wheat, even oatmeal will work.

The way it works is that there is a thermostat that senses when the temperature rises above 212 degrees F. (100 C) Which it can only do once the water present has dissipated (absorbed into the grain and/or evaporated). So as long as you get the grain to water ratio right, it’s pretty much fool proof.

One more thing, if you're cooking for one it's the ideal vessel. You can cut up a little chicken and put it in the rice cooker with say . . . curry powder, coconut milk and some shredded kale and you have a one pot meal for one. Mine has a stream basket so you can cook up some extra veggies too.

I never know what to do with the "giblets" that come inside a chicken, is there a simple way to make them delicious?

There is.
Unfortunately the vast majority of these little goody bags inside the chicken go directly in the garbage. Many home cooks wince at the thought of having to process these bits and pieces, or maybe at the thought of having to eat them. But the truth is they're tasty, and easy to deal with.

You can make a quick "pate". It's not something people do very often, but a it can be a simple process. For those who have trouble with the idea of eating innards, the method kind of disguises what your consuming.
This is great just spread on good bread as an appetizer.

Quick Giblet Pate

1 Pkg. "Giblets"- heart, gizzard, liver (cut the gizzard and heart in pieces)
Chicken Skin (equivalent of 3"x3" piece), seasoned well with salt
1 Shallot, minced
4 tbsps Port (you could also use- cognac, brandy, sherry or madiera)+ a 1 splash
4 oz. Butter, cut into half inch cubes, room temp.

1. Over medium low heat, render the chicken skin until it is nicely browned and has released some fat into the skillet. Remove the skin pieces and reserve.


2. With the same heat, slowly cook the giblets giblets until sightly browned. Remove from the pan and place the giblets, along with the skin in the freezer.








3. Again over the same heat, sweat out the shallot until translucent. Add the port and allow to simmer and reduce by about half. Transfer to a bowl and and put that bowl in the freezer as well.






4. Once everything has cooled (about 10-15 min.) place the giblets and skin in a food processor and using pulses chop them very well. Because of the size of the processor relative to the stuff you put in it, you'll have to scrape down the sides often.
5. Once chopped, add in the butter and extra splash of port. Using pulses again, incorporate until smooth.

Optional: I like to leave it a little rustic, but if you wanted it completely smooth you could pass the mix through a tami or strainer at this point.

Put the pate in a serving bowl, cover it well and stick it in the fridge. It will hold well for up to five days. To consume, set it out and allow it to soften a little bit.

I need something different to do with potatoes, any ideas?

These winter months don't leave us much to work with in terms of produce. We work our way through a repertoire of root vegetables pretty quickly, but I have a few tricks up my sleeve to keep things interesting until spring.

This recipe hails from Peru, the birthplace of potatoes and, in my opinion, the home of the most underrated cuisine in the world. It's called papa a la huancaina, and it is simply boiled potatoes served cold with a special sauce of cheese, bread (or crackers), milk and aji amarillo. Aji amarillo is a pepper, usually sold in a puree, but you can find them whole in a jar or every once in a blue moon fresh. It has a very distinct flavor indicative on Peruvian cuisine.

If you live in new york you can score some aji amarillo at kaustyan's or in just about any bodega in sunnyside. If you can't find it, try a mix of a red or orange bell pepper and 1/4 of a habanero.

Papa a la Huancaina

2 Potatoes, russet or yukon gold
1 Medium onion, chopped
3 Cloves of garlic, roughly chopped
1 tbsp Aji amarillo paste
1 cup Stale bread, torn into 1 inch peices (or 1/2 cup crushed saltines)
1 cup Evaporated milk
1 cup Cheese, mild soft cheese works best, (farmers cheese, pot cheese, even cream cheese, feta would also work or any combination of cheeses. I actually used part cream cheese part aged gouda {seen in the pic above})
Juice of half a lemon


1. To cook the potatoes, Peel them, halve them lengthwise and cut them into wedges. Drop them into boiling salted water for four and a half minutes, or until for tender. Drain and toss in olive oil with a pinch of salt and allow to cool.
2. Place the bread, milk, and cheese in the blender and let it chill out for a second
3. Over medium heat, sweat out the onions until they're translucent around 5 minutes. Add the garlic and aji amarillo and cook for another 3 minutes
4. Add the onion mixture to the rest of the ingredients already in the blender and puree well. Season with salt to taste.

The sauce should be rich and thick with a slight tang and decent kick from the aji. You be the judge, if it's too thick add milk, if its too thin add bread. If you want it spicier add more pepper paste


To serve simply spoon the sauce over the potatoes and garnish with olives and hard boiled eggs.

Out with the old . . .

I'm not one to throw away something that still functions. . . . hence my unparalleled success in relationships. But sometimes that thing, though it still works fine, has some underlying risks.
The old thing: my spatula (the one on the left)
The underlying risk: bacteria.

Even though I pull off the top every time I clean it, moisture and gunk still manage to cling to the cavity. And Stored next to my warm stove top, for easy access, it makes for the perfect tiny bacteria farm.

The brown and black stuff is bacteria burying itself in the wood.

I couldn't bear to knowingly dip this stick in food any longer so I'm throwing it out. Fortunately there is a solution, newer designs are one solid piece of plastic, with no nooks and crannies for grime to hang out. (see above pic)

and for the record, I'm only throwing out the bamboo handle. The rubber spatula end actually makes for a fine hand scraper.